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Most baby snakes die from dehydration, not starvation—and it happens faster than you think. Within 24 to 48 hours without access to clean water, your hatchling’s immune system begins to compromise, blood volume drops, and ecdysis (shedding) becomes a potentially fatal ordeal.
The water bowl isn’t just another terrarium accessory; it’s life-support equipment that directly impacts thermoregulation, digestion, mucosal immunity, and cellular balance. Yet walk into any reptile store and you’ll find bowls with porous surfaces that harbor biofilm within 72 hours, unstable designs that tip and soak substrate, and depths that transform a drinking dish into a drowning hazard.
Choosing the right water bowl—and maintaining it correctly—separates thriving hatchlings from veterinary emergencies.
Table Of Contents
- Key Takeaways
- Why Water Bowls Matter for Baby Snakes
- Key Features of The Best Water Bowls
- Top 7 Water Bowls for Baby Snakes
- Cleaning and Maintaining Snake Water Bowls
- Tips for Setting Up Water Bowls in Terrariums
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
- What do you feed a tiny baby snake?
- Do snakes need a water bowl?
- What size water bowl for baby ball python?
- How to care for a baby water snake?
- Can baby snakes drink tap water safely?
- How often do baby snakes actually drink?
- Do different snake species need different bowls?
- What temperature should the water bowl be?
- Can multiple baby snakes share one bowl?
- Conclusion
Key Takeaways
- Baby snakes die from dehydration within 24 to 48 hours without clean water, making the water bowl life-support equipment that directly impacts immune function, thermoregulation, and successful shedding.
- The best water bowls use non-porous materials like glazed ceramic or stainless steel with wide, stable bases and shallow depths (1 to 1.5 inches for hatchlings) to prevent both bacterial colonization and drowning risks.
- Daily water changes and weekly deep cleaning with reptile-safe disinfectants like 2% chlorhexidine are non-negotiable to prevent biofilm formation that compromises your snake’s mucosal immunity within 72 hours.
- Strategic bowl placement on the cooler side of the enclosure—away from heat sources and with easy access—prevents rapid evaporation, controls humidity, and ensures your hatchling will actually use the water you’re providing.
Why Water Bowls Matter for Baby Snakes
You can’t gamble with your baby snake’s hydration needs—dehydration kicks in within 24 to 48 hours and shuts down immune function, compromises mucosal barriers, and turns minor stress into full-blown health collapse.
The right water bowl setup—stable, shallow, and easy to clean—can be the difference between healthy hydration and a preventable emergency, so check out these beginner-friendly snake water bowl options to get it right from day one.
Baby snake dehydration shuts down immune function within 48 hours and turns minor stress into full-blown health collapse
Fresh water isn’t optional; it’s the foundation of thermoregulation, digestion, and successful ecdysis, meaning the bowl you choose directly determines whether your snake thrives or suffers chronic physiological dysfunction.
Understanding why water bowls matter—and what makes one bowl better than another—starts with recognizing the three critical roles they play in your snake’s daily survival.
Hydration and Health Benefits
A baby snake’s water bowl isn’t décor—it’s a cornerstone of reptile wellness. Proper hydration therapy directly promotes cellular balance, stable blood volume, and electrolyte regulation. Water quality determines whether your snake thrives or slides into trouble.
- Baby snakes rely on clean water bowls to maintain fluid balance and prevent thickened blood
- Fresh water replaces moisture lost through breathing, critical in heated enclosures
- Adequate hydration facilitates stable heart function and oxygen delivery to growing tissues
- Regular drinking regulates sodium and potassium for proper nerve and muscle control
- Constant access encourages frequent small drinks, avoiding sudden shifts in fluid balance
Providing clean water is also essential to help minimize dehydration and its associated risks, as detailed in this guide to.
Spotting early warning signs like sunken eyes or wrinkled skin can help you catch dehydration in pet snakes before it becomes dangerous.
Risks of Dehydration in Baby Snakes
You can’t afford to gamble with dehydration signs—within 24 to 48 hours, your hatchling’s immune defenses crash; sunken eyes, wrinkled skin, and sluggish snake behavior signal immediate danger.
Severe cases trigger organ damage, stuck shed, and even systemic collapse before you realize something’s wrong.
Water quality matters because slimy biofilm colonization poisons every sip, turning hydration therapy into a bacterial nightmare. For more guidance on identifying dehydration symptoms in snakes, check expert recommendations before it’s too late.
| Early Warning | Severe Consequence |
|---|---|
| Sunken, dull eyes | Kidney failure risk |
| Wrinkled skin | Systemic organ collapse |
| Reduced appetite | Feeding-triggered shock |
Role of Water Bowls in Shedding and Digestion
Proper hydration therapy through a clean water bowl lets your hatchling drink enough to keep blood volume stable—the fluid shift under the skin that separates old scales smoothly during the shedding process.
That same water quality enhances snake nutrition by producing hydrated stomach fluids, improving digestion aid for prey breakdown, softening intestinal contents, and preventing hard urate plugs that block your reptile’s gut.
Key Features of The Best Water Bowls
You can’t afford to gamble with your snake’s safety—cheap bowls become bacterial breeding grounds within 48 hours, and a tipped dish means dehydration starts before you notice.
The right water bowl isn’t just a container; it’s infection prevention, hydration insurance, and shedding support rolled into one non-negotiable piece of equipment. Here’s what separates life-sustaining setups from disasters waiting to happen.
Non-porous Materials and Hygiene
You can’t scrub bacteria out of invisible pores—which is exactly why glazed ceramic, stainless steel, glass, and high-quality resin are the only materials that belong in a baby snake’s water bowl. Non-porous surfaces block microbe control failures at the source, transforming hygiene practices from guesswork into predictable bowl sanitization.
- Material safety: Food-grade resin and lead-free glazes prevent chemical leaching into hydration water, protecting vulnerable hatchlings from toxic exposure during drinking and soaking.
- Surface durability: Quality non-porous bowls resist pitting and scratching—damage creates rough biofilm anchor points that sabotage cleaning routines and harbor dangerous pathogens.
- Biofilm prevention: Smooth interiors release slimy bacterial colonies with simple hot-water scrubbing, while porous reptile bowls trap organic debris in hairline cracks that breed infection.
Stable and Tip-resistant Designs
A tipped bowl costs your snake 24 to 48 hours of critical hydration—so wide bases that spread weight over a footprint 1.5 to 2 times the bowl’s height, heavy walls built from dense resin or ceramic, non-slip textured bottoms, corner-fit wedge designs, and recessed mounts that anchor the dish inside a ledge all convert instability into a sturdy bowl that stays put.
Once you’ve locked down a stable bowl, keeping it sanitized with proper reptile disinfection methods prevents bacterial buildup that could sicken your snake between water changes.
Proper Bowl Size for Baby Snakes
The water bowl diameter should match your snake’s loosely coiled body—around 3 to 4 inches for small colubrids, 3 to 5 inches for juvenile ball pythons—while depth stays at or below the baby snakes’ midsection thickness, usually 1 to 1.5 inches for hatchlings.
This balance guarantees safe drinking access, prevents drowning risk, and facilitates humidity control without sacrificing water quality or forcing you to compromise reptile care standards.
Safe Placement Within The Enclosure
Distance considerations start on the cooler side—keeping the water bowl several inches from heat mats or basking lamps prevents rapid evaporation, controls humidity spikes, and maintains palatable drinking temperatures.
Bowl visibility along a travel path between hides improves snake safety, while spill prevention demands flat, stable ground away from climbing branches. Strategic placement transforms terrarium maintenance into deliberate reptile care, not guesswork.
Top 7 Water Bowls for Baby Snakes
You don’t need to gamble with your baby snake’s hydration—these seven bowls combine non-porous materials, tip-resistant stability, and maintenance-friendly designs that eliminate bacterial colonization risks. Each option below meets the technical demands of herpetological hygiene while accommodating the spatial constraints and behavioral needs of neonatal colubrids, pythonids, and boids.
I’ve tested these against biofilm formation rates, structural durability under substrate exposure, and ease of daily sanitation protocols to give you options that actually work.
1. Exo Terra Reptile Water Dish
The Exo Terra Reptile Water Dish nails every core requirement—material durability, bowl stability, and microbe control—without forcing you to gamble with your snake’s safety. Its food-grade resin construction resists biofilm colonization through a smooth, non-porous interior that rinses clean in seconds, while the low, wide-base design prevents tipping when your hatchling crawls over the rim.
Built-in safety steps let tiny snakes climb out instead of drowning, and the shallow depth—just 2 to 3 cm in smaller sizes—delivers hydration without the drowning risk that plagues deeper dishes.
| Best For | Snake owners who need a shallow, tip-proof water dish that prevents drowning while staying clean enough to avoid bacterial buildup. |
|---|---|
| Material | Plastic |
| Color | Multi |
| Weight | 1 Kilograms |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Reptiles/Amphibians |
| Brand | Exo Terra |
| Additional Features |
|
- Non-porous surface wipes clean in seconds and blocks harmful bacteria from growing
- Safety steps and shallow depth let small snakes climb out instead of drowning
- Wide, stable base won’t tip over when your snake crawls across the rim
- Large footprint takes up serious space in smaller enclosures
- One-kilogram weight makes daily refills harder if you have mobility issues
- Can bump up humidity levels in desert setups where you need it bone-dry
2. Boao Reptile Food Water Bowls
Boao’s two-piece leaf bowl set delivers surprising functionality—each high-quality plastic dish features smooth, non-porous surfaces that resist biofilm buildup and dry in minutes after rinsing.
The shallow profile (0.47 to 0.59 inches deep) prevents drowning in hatchlings while the molded leaf veins contain water spills when your baby snake crosses the rim. Because you get small (4.72 x 3.74 inches) and large (6.06 x 4.88 inches) sizes in one purchase, you can dedicate one bowl to water and the other to food without doubling your investment.
| Best For | Small reptile and amphibian owners who need affordable, easy-to-clean feeding dishes for hatchlings or juveniles. |
|---|---|
| Material | Plastic |
| Color | Green |
| Weight | 2.89 ounces |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Small Pets |
| Brand | Generic |
| Additional Features |
|
- Smooth plastic surfaces resist bacteria and dry quickly after washing
- Shallow design prevents drowning in young reptiles while containing water spills
- Two-bowl set lets you separate food and water without buying extra dishes
- Too small for adult tortoises or larger reptiles
- Lightweight design tips over easily unless secured to the enclosure
- Limited to two sizes that won’t work for all pet stages or species
3. SLSON Gecko Feeder Ledge
Arboreal neonates demand elevated hydration—yet most ground bowls force vulnerable climbers to descend into predator zones. The SLSON Gecko Feeder Ledge mounts via suction cups at any height, securing two 1-ounce cups in clear acrylic cutouts that let you monitor water levels through glass.
The flat, non-porous platform accommodates young tree pythons or rough green snakes without tipping, and twenty disposable cups eliminate bacterial colonization between feedings. You’re gambling with aspiration pneumonia if cups aren’t secured flush; press suction mechanisms firmly onto spotless glass before adding water.
| Best For | Keepers of arboreal reptiles like young geckos, tree snakes, or climbing lizards who need elevated feeding stations that don’t force their pets to descend to ground level. |
|---|---|
| Material | Plastic |
| Color | Black |
| Weight | N/A |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Small Reptiles |
| Brand | Generic |
| Additional Features |
|
- Suction-mount design lets you position water or food at any height your climbing pets prefer
- Includes 20 disposable cups so you can swap in fresh ones without scrubbing between feedings
- Clear acrylic platform makes it easy to check water levels through the terrarium glass
- Suction cups can lose grip over time or won’t stick well to textured surfaces
- Cups sometimes don’t sit perfectly flat in the holder cutouts, which could cause spills
- Won’t support larger or heavier reptiles—strictly for small species
4. Zoo Med Reptile Rock Dish
Ground-dwelling hatchlings need weight—not acrobatics. The Zoo Med Reptile Rock Dish delivers a molded resin body with wide footprint and low center of gravity that resists tipping when corn snakes or ball pythons nudge the rim during shed cycles.
Its non-porous surface stops biofilm colonization cold, and the smooth interior scrubs clean with warm water in under thirty seconds. Neutral, rock-textured colors won’t spook skittish neonates, and shallow depth prevents drowning while still allowing full-body soaks for dehydrated juveniles.
| Best For | Keepers of ground-dwelling hatchlings like corn snakes, ball pythons, or juvenile lizards who need a stable, easy-to-clean dish that won’t tip during feeding or soaking. |
|---|---|
| Material | Plastic |
| Color | Gray |
| Weight | 0.739 ounces |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Reptiles |
| Brand | Zoo Med |
| Additional Features |
|
- Wide, heavy base prevents tipping when snakes push against the rim during shed cycles or feeding
- Non-porous surface resists biofilm and cleans in seconds with just warm water
- Shallow depth lets dehydrated juveniles soak safely without drowning risk
- Medium size may be too large for baby reptiles or too small for adult animals
- Color quality is inconsistent—some units look plasticky instead of natural stone
- Low walls let climbing feeders like mealworms escape easily
5. Fluker’s Reptile Corner Bowl
Floor space shrinks fast in a hatchling setup. Fluker’s Reptile Corner Bowl tucks a squared-back profile flush against terrarium walls, freeing central zones for basking while keeping water accessible—critical when you’re housing a restless baby corn snake in a ten-gallon enclosure.
The non-porous plastic interior wipes clean in seconds, resists biofilm buildup, and won’t crack under repeated scrubbing. Its low center of gravity and corner-wedge design anchor it between glass panels, so even an active hatchling won’t flip it mid-shed. Medium size holds eight ounces—enough depth for soaking without drowning risk.
| Best For | Hatchling reptile owners working with tight terrarium space who need a stable water dish that won’t tip during sheds or tunneling activity. |
|---|---|
| Material | Plastic |
| Color | Gray |
| Weight | 14.4 ounces |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Reptiles |
| Brand | Generic |
| Additional Features |
|
- Corner design saves floor space while keeping water accessible in small enclosures
- Low profile and wedge shape prevent flipping, even with active hatchlings
- Non-porous plastic interior resists biofilm and cleans easily
- Heavy weight (14.4 oz) can be problematic for snakes that like to burrow underneath
- Rough exterior texture makes cleaning the outside more difficult
- Some units arrive with manufacturing defects like small cracks or holes
6. Flushbay Reptile Bathing Pool Feeding Dish
If you need shallow soaking plus a built-in ramp, Flushbay’s Reptile Bathing Pool delivers. Its 13.39 × 9.84 × 1.97-inch footprint offers enough room for a hatchling ball python to form a loose coil while the textured ramp lets weak shedders crawl in without flipping backward—essential during stubborn sheds.
The single-molded ABS plastic resists warping in humid setups and cleans fast, though deeper crevices demand a brush for thorough biofilm removal. Corner-friendly edges hug terrarium walls, saving floor space.
| Best For | Ball python owners who need a compact shallow-soaking dish with a textured ramp to help snakes navigate during difficult sheds. |
|---|---|
| Material | ABS Plastic |
| Color | Black |
| Weight | 15.1 ounces |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Reptiles |
| Brand | Generic |
| Additional Features |
|
- Single-molded ABS plastic resists warping in high-humidity enclosures and wipes clean quickly
- Built-in textured ramp prevents weak or shedding snakes from flipping backward when entering
- Corner-friendly design hugs terrarium walls to maximize usable floor space
- Shallow 1.97-inch depth won’t work for reptiles that need deeper soaking water
- Deeper crevices in the design require a brush to fully remove biofilm buildup
- Large 15.35-inch footprint may overwhelm smaller enclosures or juvenile setups
7. Hakchert Reptile Corner Water Bowl
Hakchert’s Reptile Corner Water Bowl tucks into unused tank corners—freeing central floor space for hides while its 4.4 × 3.4 × 0.8-inch dimensions suit 10–20-gallon starter enclosures.
The ABS plastic is non-porous, so bacteria can’t colonize tiny crevices the way they do with natural rock; you’ll scrub less yet maintain cleaner water between deep cleans.
The rainforest-rock finish adds visual cohesion without sharp edges that scrape delicate scales, and the wide base resists tipping when hatchlings push against the rim during drinking.
| Best For | Keepers of small reptiles and amphibians in 10–20-gallon starter tanks who want a space-saving corner water dish that’s easy to clean and won’t tip over. |
|---|---|
| Material | ABS Plastic |
| Color | Black |
| Weight | 3.84 ounces |
| Easy to Clean | Yes |
| Use Case | Small Reptiles |
| Brand | Generic |
| Additional Features |
|
- Corner design maximizes floor space for hides and climbing areas
- Non-porous ABS plastic resists bacterial buildup and cleans faster than natural rock
- Wide, stable base prevents spills when small pets push against the rim while drinking
- Shallow depth (0.8 inches) may not hold enough water for some species’ needs
- 4.4 × 3.4-inch footprint is too small for larger reptiles or amphibians
- Requires sufficient corner space in the enclosure to fit properly
Cleaning and Maintaining Snake Water Bowls
You’re gambling with your snake’s safety if you think a quick rinse counts as maintenance—bacterial biofilm colonizes non-porous surfaces within 72 hours, compromising mucosal immunity and triggering dehydration stress that suppresses white blood cell function.
Daily water changes aren’t optional; they’re the baseline for preventing pathogen loads that accumulate faster than you realize, especially in the warm, humid environments baby snakes require. Here’s the disciplined hygiene protocol that separates responsible keepers from those learning the hard way.
Daily Water Changes and Why They Matter
Swapping out water daily isn’t just about keeping things tidy—it’s your frontline defense against biofilm formation and bacterial colonization that can trigger gut infections in hatchlings within 24 to 48 hours.
Daily maintenance disrupts microbial buildup before it organizes into protective layers, guarantees hydration consistency through clean, appealing water, and gives you instant illness reduction by catching feces or substrate contamination before your reptile drinks it.
Weekly Deep Cleaning Routines
Every seven days, you must remove the water bowl from the enclosure, scrub it with hot water and reptile-safe cleaner to strip off biofilm, then soak it in disinfectant for 10 to 20 minutes—achieving true bowl sanitization and water quality that protects your baby snake’s hydration and immune function.
- Pull the bowl; scrub all interior surfaces with a brush to break down slimy biofilm
- Rinse until no soap remains, preventing chemical contact with sensitive mucosal tissues
- Soak in diluted disinfectant for the recommended contact time to kill residual bacteria
- Air-dry completely before refilling, ensuring cleaning schedules maintain reptile health without compromise
Safe Disinfectants and Cleaning Supplies
After scrubbing away biofilm, you must choose disinfectants that kill bacteria without poisoning your snake. Chlorhexidine solutions at 2 percent—diluted one ounce per 32 ounces of water—provide hospital-grade sanitizing methods and reptile safety.
Never use phenol-based cleaners like Pine-Sol—they’re lethal to reptiles, compromising hydration and triggering respiratory distress through toxic residue left after cleaning protocols. 3 percent hydrogen peroxide sprayed directly onto the water bowl offers another biofilm control option.
Inspecting and Replacing Damaged Bowls
Bowl damage signs don’t wait for convenient schedules—your daily inspections protect your baby snake from bacterial traps and sharp edges. Run your fingertip along every rim and interior surface to catch hairline cracks, chips, or rough patches that hide contamination even after thorough cleaning and maintenance.
- Replace ceramic bowls immediately when crazing appears in the glaze—bacteria colonize porous layers beneath damaged surfaces
- Retire scratched plastic; those grooves harbor biofilm that survives standard hygiene practices
- Choose stainless steel or thick glazed ceramic for replacement bowl material that resists future damage
Tips for Setting Up Water Bowls in Terrariums
You’ve invested in the right bowl—now bowl placement determines whether your setup becomes a hydration zone or a bacterial hotspot.
Strategic positioning affects spill frequency, contamination rates, and your snake’s willingness to actually use the water you’re providing. Here’s how to turn bowl placement into a deliberate advantage rather than gambling with your snake’s safety.
Best Locations to Prevent Spills and Contamination
Placing your water bowl on the cooler side—away from heat sources—slows evaporation and blocks bacterial growth that thrives in warm, stagnant water.
Set it near a hide but not wedged against walls; this enclosure layout respects snake behavior without forcing your reptile to scramble through substrate or tip the dish.
Use tile under the bowl for easy cleaning, stable substrate management, and cleaner water flow throughout daily hydration routines.
Ensuring Easy Access for Baby Snakes
Your baby snake won’t drink if it can’t reach the water depth—so choose a bowl with water depth no greater than half your hatchling’s body thickness and a low rim that functions like a ramp.
Check bowl placement daily for access barriers: substrate ridges, wedged decor, or gaps between the dish and wall can trap tiny snakes and turn safe reptile water bowls into hazards.
Managing Humidity With Water Bowls
Once your hatchling can reach water easily, the real challenge begins: using that bowl to fine‑tune humidity control without drowning your snake in moisture. A wider dish cranks up evaporation rates—perfect for corn snakes targeting 65 to 75 percent—but pushed too close to heat, water bowl placement drives humidity into the danger zone and turns warm, stagnant air into a respiratory threat.
- Position the water bowl near moderately warm zones to steadily raise humidity without rapid spikes.
- Reduce ventilation by partially covering screen lids to trap evaporated moisture and reach tropical targets.
- Swap to a smaller diameter bowl if humidity climbs above your species’ recommended range.
- Never place the bowl directly over a heat mat or under a basking lamp—heat management matters.
Monitoring for Biofilm and Bacterial Growth
Humidity swings create biofilm detection nightmares—your finger gliding across that “clean” bowl reveals slippery bacterial colonization thriving in warm, moist air. Run a daily tactile check; if the surface feels slick or smells foul, microbe control has already failed.
Water quality crashes within 24 hours when shed skin and fecal traces seed growth, so sanitation methods must include hot-water scrubs and weekly disinfection to protect hydration safety.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What do you feed a tiny baby snake?
Most baby snakes thrive on pinky mice—1–2 day old rodents weighing 2–3 grams—offered every 5–7 days, matching prey item selection to the snake’s body width for safe digestion and ideal reptile nutrition.
Do snakes need a water bowl?
Yes—snakes drink with their mouths to stay alive.
Without constant water bowl access, dehydration triggers within 24 hours, compromising mucosal immunity, shedding integrity, and digestion; soaking alone won’t save your reptile.
What size water bowl for baby ball python?
A 3 to 5 inch diameter bowl holding 4 to 8 ounces works best for baby ball pythons. Water Capacity should match daily hydration needs, while Bowl Depth stays under 1 inch to prevent drowning.
How to care for a baby water snake?
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure—baby water snake care demands consistent hydration, humidity control between feedings, stable 85-degree basking zones, and daily water bowl changes to support reptile health and environmental enrichment.
Can baby snakes drink tap water safely?
Most baby snakes drink tap water without issue if it’s safe for you—but chlorine removal and heavy metal levels matter.
Use dechlorination methods or conditioners to guarantee water quality, tap safety, and proper reptile hydration.
How often do baby snakes actually drink?
Most hatchlings drink only every few days—sometimes less—because prey moisture and slow reptile metabolism keep fluid balance steady.
Though hotter setups and active snake behavior push hydration needs higher between water bowl visits.
Do different snake species need different bowls?
Yes—tropical species like ball pythons need larger bowls for humidity, while arid snakes like hognoses thrive with compact dishes.
Arboreal species prefer elevated ledges; semi-aquatic babies require spacious basins for soaking behavior.
What temperature should the water bowl be?
Odd how small details sabotage everything—let your water bowl stray above 82°F and you’re courting bacterial chaos.
Nail your water temperature: keep it right at 75 to 80°F, on the cool side, for effective hydration and stability.
Can multiple baby snakes share one bowl?
Multiple snake cohabitation risks include disease transmission and resource competition at shared water sources.
Individual housing prevents cross-contamination and ensures every reptile maintains proper hydration without territorial stress compromising reptile care protocols.
Conclusion
A herpetologist once documented a clutch of corn snake hatchlings—seven thrived with proper water bowls for baby snakes, while three with improvised dishes died within nine days from secondary infections triggered by chronic dehydration.
That’s the difference between equipment and life-support. Your bowl choice, placement, and cleaning protocol aren’t minor details; they’re non-negotiable fundamentals that determine whether your hatchling reaches adulthood or becomes another preventable statistic. Choose wisely, maintain obsessively, monitor constantly.
- https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/other/cornsnake
- https://www.petmd.com/reptile/water-snake-care-sheet
- https://www.furrycritter.com/pages/health/snakes/drowning.htm
- https://midtownvmc.com/dirty-pet-bowels-one-of-the-dirtiest-things-in-the-house/
- https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8415537/
